{"id":57,"date":"2022-09-14T08:52:09","date_gmt":"2022-09-14T08:52:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.francespiration.com\/?p=57"},"modified":"2023-09-07T08:11:49","modified_gmt":"2023-09-07T08:11:49","slug":"a-francia-divat-titka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.francespiration.com\/index.php\/2022\/09\/14\/a-francia-divat-titka\/","title":{"rendered":"Lovakt\u00f3l a luxusig: a Herm\u00e9s m\u00e1rka igaz t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

1837-ben Thierry Herm\u00e8s megnyitotta m\u0171hely\u00e9t a p\u00e1rizsi Grands Boulevards negyedben az eur\u00f3pai nemesek szolg\u00e1lat\u00e1ra m\u00e9g nem sejtette, hogy egy ikonikus birodalom alapk\u00f6veit teszi le.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Lovak, mint els\u0151 \u00fcgyfelek<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A t\u00f6rt\u00e9net a legfinomabb kov\u00e1csolt h\u00e1mokkal \u00e9s kant\u00e1rokkal kezd\u0151d\u00f6tt, amelyeket Thierry Herm\u00e9s a kocsisok sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra k\u00e9sz\u00edtett. A k\u00f6vetkez\u0151 \u00e9vtizedekben az egyik legh\u00edresebb nyerges\u00e1ru-keresked\u0151v\u00e9 fejl\u0151d\u00f6tt, \u00e9s elkezdett b\u0151rt\u00e1sk\u00e1kat gy\u00e1rtani a lovak etet\u00e9s\u00e9hez \u00e9s a lovasok sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra az egy\u00e9b kieg\u00e9sz\u00edt\u0151k t\u00e1rol\u00e1s\u00e1ra \u00e9s sz\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1ra, mint a csizm\u00e1k, ostorok \u00e9s lovagl\u00f3sisakok. Ebben az id\u0151ben a lovak egy olyan luxusnak sz\u00e1m\u00edtottak, amit csak a gazdagok engedhettek meg maguknak, \u00e9s Herm\u00e8s term\u00e9kei egyenesen az eur\u00f3pai nemess\u00e9g fel\u00e9 ir\u00e1nyultak. Herm\u00e8s b\u00fcszke volt arra, hogy meg\u00e9rtette \u00fcgyfelei v\u00e1gyait, k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6s tekintettel a b\u0151r\u00e1ruk egyszer\u0171s\u00e9g\u00e9re \u00e9s k\u00f6nnyeds\u00e9g\u00e9re. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kiv\u00e1l\u00f3 min\u0151s\u00e9g\u0171 kov\u00e1csolt kell\u00e9keivel sz\u00e1mos d\u00edjat nyert, k\u00f6zt\u00fck az 1855-\u00f6s p\u00e1rizsi Vil\u00e1gki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s els\u0151 d\u00edj\u00e1t. Ekkor m\u00e1r olyan neves mec\u00e9n\u00e1sok tartoztak vev\u0151i k\u00f6z\u00e9, mint III. Nap\u00f3leon cs\u00e1sz\u00e1r \u00e9s Eug\u00e9nia cs\u00e1sz\u00e1rn\u00e9. Az eszt\u00e9tikum \u00e9s a tart\u00f3ss\u00e1g egyens\u00faly\u00e1t megteremtve, Herm\u00e8s versenyt\u00e1rsait fel\u00fclm\u00falva, 1867-ben m\u00e1sodszor is elnyerte a p\u00e1rizsi Vil\u00e1gki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s els\u0151 d\u00edj\u00e1t, \u00e9s term\u00e9keivel soha nem l\u00e1tott n\u00e9pszer\u0171s\u00e9g\u00e9t \u00e9s megbecs\u00fcl\u00e9s\u00e9t v\u00e1ltott ki Franciaorsz\u00e1gban. A Herm\u00e8s term\u00e9kek egyik kulcsfontoss\u00e1g\u00fa ismertet\u0151jele az volt, hogy ragaszkodtak a hagyom\u00e1nyos, csak k\u00e9zzel kivitelezhet\u0151 nyeregf\u0171z\u00e9si m\u00f3dszerhez. Ez a nyeregvarr\u00e1s tart\u00f3sabb \u00f6lt\u00e9sekkel k\u00e9sz\u00fclt, \u00edgy tart\u00f3sabb term\u00e9keket eredm\u00e9nyezett, \u00e9s sokkal nagyobb figyelmet ford\u00edtottak a r\u00e9szletekre.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Tizenegy \u00e9vvel a Vil\u00e1gki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s megnyer\u00e9se ut\u00e1n a Herm\u00e8s \u00fczlet gazd\u00e1t cser\u00e9lt. <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Thierry Herm\u00e8s hal\u00e1lakor fia, Charles-Emile Herm\u00e8s \u00f6r\u00f6k\u00f6lte a t\u00e1rsas\u00e1got. Charles az \u00fczletet \u00e1tk\u00f6lt\u00f6ztette jelenlegi hely\u00e9re, ahol imm\u00e1r 141 \u00e9ve \u00e1ll: a p\u00e1rizsi Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore 24. sz\u00e1m al\u00e1. Folytatta ap\u00e1i nyomdokait, t\u00f6k\u00e9letes\u00edtette a kereskedelmet, \u00e9s a kiskereskedelmi \u00e9rt\u00e9kes\u00edt\u00e9s tov\u00e1bbi nemzetk\u00f6zi kiterjeszt\u00e9s\u00e9re \u00f6sszpontos\u00edtott az eur\u00f3pai, orosz, \u00e1zsiai \u00e9s amerikai elit \u00fcgyfelek sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra. Charles-Emile fiaival, Adolphe-val \u00e9s Emile-Maurice-szal dolgozott egy\u00fctt az innovat\u00edv Haut A Courroies t\u00e1ska bevezet\u00e9s\u00e9n, amelyet a lovasok sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra forgalmaztak \u2013 egy t\u00e1sk\u00e1t a nyergek sz\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1ra. Ez a term\u00e9k az elk\u00f6vetkez\u0151 \u00e9vekben m\u00e9g nyilv\u00e1nval\u00f3bb\u00e1 tette a Herm\u00e8s b\u0151r\u00e1ru-kollekci\u00f3j\u00e1nak b\u0151v\u00fcl\u00e9s\u00e9t. Charles 1902-ben \u00e1tadta a c\u00e9g vezet\u00e9s\u00e9t k\u00e9t fi\u00e1nak (Adolphe \u00e9s Emile), akik a nevet Herm\u00e8s Fr\u00e8res-re (Herm\u00e8s testv\u00e9rek) v\u00e1ltoztatt\u00e1k. 16 \u00e9vvel Charles Herm\u00e8s t\u00e1voz\u00e1sa ut\u00e1n a c\u00e9g \u00fajabb term\u00e9kinnov\u00e1ci\u00f3t dobott piacra, amely jelent\u0151sen megv\u00e1ltoztatta a p\u00e1ly\u00e1j\u00e1t: az els\u0151 cipz\u00e1ras b\u0151r golfkab\u00e1tot Edward walesi herceg sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Az ikonikus golfkab\u00e1t 1918-as megalkot\u00e1s\u00e1nak \u00e9s a Herm\u00e8s kiz\u00e1r\u00f3lagos jogi meg\u00e1llapod\u00e1s\u00e1nak k\u00f6zetkezm\u00e9nyek\u00e9pp a cipz\u00e1r a Herm\u00e8s m\u00e1rka szinonim\u00e1j\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00e1lt. A k\u00f6znyelvben \u201efermeture Herm\u00e8s\u201d n\u00e9ven ismert, ami magyarra ford\u00edtva annyit tesz, mint \u201eHerm\u00e8s r\u00f6gz\u00edt\u0151\u201d. Ez az egyed\u00fcl\u00e1ll\u00f3 funkci\u00f3 lehet\u0151s\u00e9get adott a Herm\u00e8s sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra term\u00e9kkollekci\u00f3j\u00e1nak b\u0151v\u00edt\u00e9s\u00e9re. A k\u00edn\u00e1lat b\u0151v\u00edt\u00e9sekor Emile a francia fels\u0151 oszt\u00e1ly ig\u00e9nyeire \u00f6sszpontos\u00edtott, \u00e9s feles\u00e9ge panaszod\u00e1saib\u00f3l mer\u00edtett ihletet, aki nem tal\u00e1lt kedv\u00e9re val\u00f3 t\u00e1sk\u00e1t. \u00cdgy t\u00f6rt\u00e9nt, hogy1922-ben Emile megalkotta a Haut \u00e0 Courroies t\u00e1ska kisebb v\u00e1ltozat\u00e1t, amely a szabadalmaztatott cipz\u00e1rral volt z\u00e1rhat\u00f3. Nem sokkal ezut\u00e1n \u00e9kszereket, 1928-ban pedig szand\u00e1lokat, 1929-ben pedig P\u00e1rizsban az els\u0151 n\u0151i couture ruh\u00e1zatot (amelyek k\u00f6z\u00f6tt f\u00fcrd\u0151ruh\u00e1k is szerepeltek) vezette be k\u00edn\u00e1lat\u00e1ba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A h\u00edres s\u00e1l<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nyolc \u00e9vvel k\u00e9s\u0151bb, 1937-ben ism\u00e9t egy \u00fajdons\u00e1got dobtak piacra: megsz\u00fcletett a Herm\u00e9s selyems\u00e1l. A mai napig ez a m\u00e1rka egyik legikonikusabb term\u00e9ke, ha hihet\u00fcnk a h\u00edreknek nagyj\u00e1b\u00f3l 20 m\u00e1sodpercenk\u00e9nt adnak el egy Herm\u00e8s s\u00e1lat vil\u00e1gszerte. A s\u00e1l megjelen\u00e9se ut\u00e1n azonnal hatalmas sikert aratott a h\u00edress\u00e9gek k\u00f6r\u00e9ben, \u00e9s olyanok viselt\u00e9k, mint Jacqueline Kennedy. A m\u00e1rka ezut\u00e1n is folytatta term\u00e9kk\u00edn\u00e1lat\u00e1nak b\u0151v\u00edt\u00e9s\u00e9t, \u00e9s j\u00f6ttek a parf\u00fcm\u00f6k, majd a lovagl\u00f3dzsekik, kark\u00f6t\u0151k. Mivel 1942-ben hi\u00e1ny volt az addig haszn\u00e1lt kr\u00e9msz\u00edn\u0171 dobozokb\u00f3l, a Herm\u00e8s csomagol\u00f3anyag-besz\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00f3ja n\u00e9h\u00e1ny marad\u00e9k narancss\u00e1rga dobozt k\u00fcld\u00f6tt a Herm\u00e8snek, \u00e9s a m\u00e1rka ikonikus csomagol\u00e1sa a mai napig narancss\u00e1rga maradt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Emile-Maurice Herm\u00e8s negyvenkilenc \u00e9ves vezet\u00e9se alatt a v\u00e1llalat vil\u00e1gh\u00edress\u00e9 v\u00e1lt \u00e9s sz\u00e1mos innov\u00e1ci\u00f3t hajtott v\u00e9gre. Hal\u00e1la ut\u00e1n, veje, Robert Dumas Herm\u00e8s ker\u00fclt a c\u00e9g \u00e9l\u00e9re, aki k\u00e9s\u0151bb t\u00f6bb ikonikus term\u00e9k megsz\u00fclet\u00e9s\u00e9rt is felel\u0151s lesz, mint p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul a Kelly t\u00e1ska, amelyet Grace Kellyr\u0151l neveztek el. Hirtelen n\u0151k ezrei \u00e1rasztott\u00e1k el a Herm\u00e8s \u00fczleteit, \u00e9s mindenki a\u201eKelly Bag\u201d-et akarta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1978-ban Thierry Herm\u00e8s \u00fck-\u00fckunok\u00e1ja, Jean Louis Dumas vette \u00e1t a c\u00e9g ir\u00e1ny\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1t, \u00e9s megv\u00e1s\u00e1rolta a Rue Faubourg Saint-Honore 24. melletti \u00e9p\u00fcletet, ezzel b\u0151v\u00edtve a c\u00e9g z\u00e1szl\u00f3shaj\u00f3j\u00e1t. 1981-ben bemutatt\u00e1k az ikonikus Birkin t\u00e1sk\u00e1t, amely Jane Birkin brit sz\u00edn\u00e9szn\u0151r\u0151l kapta a nev\u00e9t. 2003-ban Jean Louis Dumas nyugd\u00edjba vonult, \u00e9s Patrick Thomas lett a Herm\u00e8s \u00faj vezet\u0151je. Naphainkban a hatodik gener\u00e1ci\u00f3s Herm\u00e8s csal\u00e1dtag, Axel Dumas vezeti a csal\u00e1di \u00f6r\u00f6ks\u00e9get…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

1837-ben Thierry Herm\u00e8s megnyitotta m\u0171hely\u00e9t a p\u00e1rizsi Grands Boulevards negyedben az eur\u00f3pai nemesek szolg\u00e1lat\u00e1ra m\u00e9g nem sejtette, hogy egy ikonikus birodalom alapk\u00f6veit teszi le.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1349,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[29,30],"tags":[37,38,36,39,40],"class_list":["post-57","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kultura","category-stilus","tag-divat","tag-francia-divat","tag-hermes","tag-sal","tag-taska"],"yoast_head":"\nLovakt\u00f3l a luxusig: a Herm\u00e9s m\u00e1rka igaz t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete - Francespiration<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.francespiration.com\/index.php\/2022\/09\/14\/a-francia-divat-titka\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"hu_HU\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Lovakt\u00f3l a luxusig: a Herm\u00e9s m\u00e1rka igaz t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete - 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